STAGE 6 – E11 blaster kit – 1st stage assembly

:: May 21st 2016 ::

So with everything trimmed, sanded and as such ready, time to start getting down to the nitty gritty. A test run with screwing and taping all the resin and metal elements into place and its starting to look good.



Resin Parts – Lenses, pinning and metal scope rail

As this pipe kit requires bonding resin pieces (and some are quite small or thin) to basically a plastic pipe, I will be pinning most the the resin items to ensure a bit more stability and strength.

Continuing with the pieces from completion kit I have taken apart the small monocular and will be drilling out the fake lens and inserting the plastic lenses from the monocular in to the E11 resin tank scope for  little visual reality.

I have also cut and shaped the flat aluminium bar that will be used as the rail to mount the tank scope and counter.

click for larger images or slide show

Folding Stock and T Tracks

The folding stock in this kit is a solid resin non-working stock – it basically just looks the part – however there is a section that needs to be drilled and milled out for a little authentic touch.

The T Tracks need to be heated and formed at each end to fit the holes in the front section of the blaster. I have chosen to use the boiling water procedure as I don’t own a heat gun, but as you will see from the images below it worked a treat!

NOTE: The folding stock has been screwed into place during this stage, but not fixed permanently yet.

click for larger images or slide show

Screws, glues and green stuff

Time to start putting the pieces together.

  • Remove the temporarily fitted T Tracks and folding stock.
  • The pinned pieces will be glued (and pinned) in place.
  • The grip and magazine holder have been drilled through and countersunk and will be glued and screwed into place, through the tube into the bolt section for more stability.
  • This will also ‘fix’ the bolt into place too.
  • The flash and port guards are super-glued into place, along with the muzzle and front sight.

Finally some Milliput modelling clay is used to fill and gaps and join elements together, smoothed over and ready for a light sanding.



Primer undercoat and first top coat


Following day once everything has dried and the Milliput is rock hard, a light sanding to smooth out the bumps and we’re ready for the first primer undercoat. I have to say this is when things really seem to take shape, as the uniform colour starts to make it look a whole item as opposed to a collection of bits, and almost real.. well you know what I mean 🙂


Metal paint

Following day and with the primer completely dried, I have added some gold/brass metal paint and silver/aluminium paint to parts of the blaster before the first top coat of satin black. This will be used to help with the ‘weathering’ effect, in conjunction with some ‘dry brushing’ techniques once the top coats are applied. More on that in a later stage.

I have also sanded off the primer where the T Tracks will lay to allow for the super-glue to bond properly to the pipe, not the paint. These areas have now been covered with blue tape to keep them clear and will be removed prior to final T Track fitting.


First top coat

Finally I can get the first top coat laid down. I am using satin black overall and will finish with an acrylic lacquer for protection, again satin finished. If need to I can use a matt finish – we’ll see how it looks when we get to that stage.



That’s it for now folks.. check back again soon 🙂